DiscoverBellyDance Journal
Vol. 25, #6, March, 2003

In this issue...

Letter from the Editor - Basic make up info on line?
Article: Stage Make up and Application: Foundation and
Concealer - Why doesn't concealer always conceal?
Announcement - phasing out
Previous Issue - "...if we cannot see the features,
part of the dance is lost."
Discussion - " there any hard and fast way of
knowing the diference?"
Events - What's happening? Events posted on
last week

Brought to you by: Jennifer James-Long - Publisher
Ann "Roxann" Sabin - Editor

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Will we ever hear too much about make up? Well, it
might happen some day, but with new materials and new techniques the topic always has something new. Before we play with the fancy technique and toys, it's a good idea to have a grip on the basics - base/foundation and concealing technique. The next three articles will be about basic make up application.

No matter how many experiments I try, I just can't
improve on the look that a good base provides! Alaine haddon-Casey dives right in to explaining foundation and concealing application, giving you an excellent base on which you can play with the colors!


Most sites with make up information are also sales
pitches... here are two which actually give

Paula Begoun, while she does sell products, is most
interested in improving your look.

Not as detailed as our article, but some good info:

Mondo Rhythmica / Ark 21 Records is proud to present
One Thousand & One Nights, remixes by Said Mrad. This
8-track CD is a mixture of remixes of some well known
Oriental tracks with many themes taken from legendary
Arab singer, Oum Khaltoum. Last summer the track by
the same name stormed clubs across France, the UK and
Spain, a massive club hit even reaching a Top 50
position on the French singles chart without radio
airplay. Available at a record store near you or visit
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^End Sponsor^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


By Alaine Haddon-Casey

After skin care, make up begins with the foundation -
or base. To choose the proper base you must determine
the undertone and value of the skin. Undertone is the
basic color found within the skin (for example, olive
or ruddy). Value is the lightness or darkness of the

In addition to deciding on the base that is suitable
for your skin, you also need to note where your
hairline begins as it relates to the brow and temple
areas. This is easy for dark haired people, but
somewhat harder for blondes where the fine hairs on the
face are harder to detect. Nevertheless they are
there, lying below the obvious, thick hairline and how
you apply your base to this area will define how smooth
the finish is!

For performance work, better coverage is achieved by
using a cream rather than a liquid foundation. This
doesn’t mean you use more base - this will give you a
rather unflattering ‘greasy’ look. But rather, you
apply the cream base to the face in a light
spreading/patting motion, applying a small amount as if
it were a skin stain. On areas that require more
coverage, the patting technique is used to deposit a
greater concentration of pigment to give a smoother a
less streaky look.

Base should be applied to all areas of exposed skin
from the face to the chest area to ensure a smooth and
equal coverage and avoid ‘tide marks’ between neck and
face. Good blending is the key to avoiding a darker
line around the hairline and side of the face. And on
that note, when applying base to the forehead, place
the makeup at mid-brow and blend first across and down,
and then to the upper brow and in the direction of the
fine hairs on the forehead and temple. This ensures
that a lighter amount is moved toward the hairline and
avoids the dreaded dark line around the hairline. It
also ensures that the fine hairs on the forehead and
temples lie flat, rather than being pushed upwards and
coated with makeup giving the ‘fuzzy’ forehead look.

(Tip: For performance, photographic, wedding or glamour
makeup, many makeup artists mix a custom base of stage
or TV makeup such as Kryolin, and the artist's own
liquid foundation. A small scraping of Kryolin - about
the size of a small pea - is placed on the back of the
hand with a plastic makeup spatula. This is then moved
around a small area on the back of the hand until it
‘melts’ down to a creamy consistency. A dollop of the
artist's everyday liquid makeup is then added and mixed
until the back of the hand becomes the ‘palette’ of
this custom mixed base. This is then applied with a
latex sponge. This effectively combines the matte and
smooth effect of the TV makeup with the lighter
consistency of the regular makeup, giving a lighter-
textured base with terrific coverage and the staying
power required by artists during a strenuous
performance, or under hot lights.)

Always apply concealer AFTER the foundation and before
the powder.

Now that you have applied a smooth, well-blended base
and your skin is well covered, it’s time to look hard
at the result. A well-lit room and a clean mirror will
soon indicate whether some correction is needed to get
the look you want.

We don’t like to admit it, but now and again we need a
little help in the cover-up department. Whether it’s a
pimple, pigmentation problems, broken blood vessels,
dark eyes, tattoos or scars, there are times when we
want to have a clear, blemish free look.

Breathe a sigh of relief that the old pink or yellowy
greasy stick has finally been upstaged! Concealers
that match the skin tone and counteract problem area
are more readily available from manufacturers than ever
before. The new concealers are much finer and apply
more thinly with great results.

What color concealer?

I find a shade a couple of shades lighter than the skin
is best. Remembering that the majority of people have
a yellow undertone to their skin, it’s often best to
steer away from pink based concealers. If in doubt,
try to recall mixing paint in art class at school,
remember yellow + blue = green? Well, pink + blue =
purple! When you think about it like this, you can see
why the wrong colour concealer could just add to the
problem - pink toned concealer on any reddened or
bluish toned problem area will turn it any of the
delightful shades from lilac to deep purple! However,
a concealer in the yellow/olive/orange tonal range does
a great job counteracting dark areas.


Under the eyes is one of the most common areas we would
use concealer, particularly after a heavy night or a
period of illness or dehydration.

Between the inner eye and the nose is also a common
problem area, where darker skin tones result in a
pinched look around the upper nose area, giving an
overall tired appearance.

At the outer eye, where the upper and lower lid join,
there is often a darker line on the skin which often
gives the appearance of eyes that droop down, again,
giving a tired or sad appearance.

Application Tip: Apply good quality concealer with a
small, fine bristled brush (preferably an artists paint
brush or an eyeliner brush). This offers far greater
control and a flawless result. If you can’t resist
using your hand, pat with your ring finger in a light
patting motion, blending outwards.

Other areas

Various scars, pimples, blemishes and even tattoos may
also require some assistance from concealer at varying

Application Tip: Again, apply concealer with a small,
fine bristled brush (preferably an artists paint brush
or an eyeliner brush), directly to the area you want
concealed. This offers far greater control and a
flawless result. Pat into the skin with your ring
finger in a light patting motion, blending outwards.
For problem areas you may need to leave the first
application to ‘settle’, then go over it again before powdering.

Powdering over concealer:

Make sure that any ‘crease’ areas where concealer has
gathered are smoothed out with the fine brush before
powdering. Once the surface is free of creases, the
powder is then applied sparingly with a medium brush
and pressed in lightly. Dust off the excess. Remember,
it is not powder that causes lines, but excessive base
makeup gathering in creases on the face, so make sure
the excess makeup/concealer is removed before

Next Issue: Contouring


After two years serving the dance community, we have
decided to close the store. We are taking time to
regroup and refocus our efforts in our other projects,
which include a documentary video,, Arabesque magazine, Habibi Magazine, and the DiscoverBellyDance Journal. It was a difficult decision for all of us involved. Arabesque Magazine will remain available, but we are liquidating the rest of our stock.


Why Stage Make Up?
By Meleah

Our face is a crucial part of this dance. Expressions
need to be seen. The face continues what the body
begins. As the mood of the dance changes, so does the
facial expression, and if we cannot see the features,
part of the dance is lost.


If our featured article triggers a few thoughts,
you can share them at the discussion boards

"how do you tell the differnce between a fast masmoudi
and a maqsoum or vice versa ... Generally I can tell
as they just 'feel' different but is there any hard
and fast way of knowing the difference?" by Zafirah,
General Music Discussion board:

"...I can't seem 2 do a shimmy while walking..." by
demonchild, Student board:

"My question is for those ladies out there who have had children before. How long did it take to lose your "tummy" and get the tone back to your stomach and the skin on your stomach to tighten back up? " by demonchild, Fitness and Beauty board:


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· BELLY RHYTHM COSTUME BAZAAR, 4/26/2003. West Orange, NJ.Costume Workshops, Bazaar. · INT'L CONFERENCE, LUXOR OF BELLY DANCE, Thursday - Sunday, 5/1-4/2003. São Paulo BRAZIL. Workshops, Lectures, Show. · MEDINA COMPETITION, Friday, Saturday, 8/22-24/2003. St. Louis, MISSOURI. Competition, Show
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